Emmerich Knoll’s winery in Unterloiben is one of Austria’s most
famous wine-growing estates. Each bottle’s traditional label is
almost as highly regarded as the wines themselves. Having paid a
visit to see them in 2012, I thought it was now time to introduce,
their expressive, unique Rieslings and Gruner Veltliners.
The winery uses exclusively old oak foudres and implements a
winemaking philosophy that places varietal site expression at the
forefront. Emmerich Knoll senior is a thoughtful, quiet man; the
opposite of Emmerich junior, cosmopolitan and modern in his
The Knolls have 15 HA of vineyard holdings in all the best sites, as
exemplified by their success in the now infamous UK tasting where
an aged Knoll Grüner beat a field of Grand Cru white Burgundies.
Emmerich Knoll doesn’t like overpowered, exuberant wines. Tight,
concentrated wines which show their power, packed and tight -
that’s the credo of the estate. Knoll’s wines are considered late
bloomers beyond exception.
The unmistakable labels bearing the image of Saint Urban, the
patron saint of winegrowing, are a reminder that tradition is the
watchword here. But what isn’t so obvious is that Emmerich Knoll’s
wines are sheer joy to drink — now or far into the future. If Knoll
and Hirtzberger are counterpoint to GUT OGGAU on a macro sense,
Knoll’s, linearity, and direction are the counterpoint to
Hirtzberger’s, voluptuous genorosity on a micro sense!